Soups

The late maitre d' hotel of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel comments on preparing, serving and enjoying soup.

Kettner writes about Soup: "There has been a good deal of needless controversy about Soup, some people finding in it a dinner in itself, and some refusing it as a weak wash, fit only for babies and invalids. Grimod de la Reyniere said that Soup is to a dinner what a portico is to a palace, or an overture is to an opera. It is not only the commencement of the feast, but should give an idea of what is to follow." Another epicure, no less than Marquis de Cussy, dubs Soup a sort of preface to the dinner, and expresses his opinion that a good work can do without a preface. Undoubtedly the majority of opinions would be against the Marquis, for with the Soup not only does the feast begin, but the stomach receives a little encouraging stimulation which prepares it for the more elaborate task about to follow. Admitting this, however, Kettner, continues, "It is quite true, however, that to serve a purpose (stomach stimulating), we do not require much weight of matter, and the plain rule to follow is: for a great dinner the Soups should be as light as possible, just enough to give a fillip; for a little dinner, with only one or two dishes, they may be as rich and satisfying as you please. De Cussy is quite in accord here with Thomas Walker, who maintained that if he gave turtle Soup to his guests they would want but little else--'whitebait and a grouse.'"

Soup should always be sent to the table in a metal or earthenware tureen, tightly covered. A metal ladle is best for serving and it should be separate from the tureen. Tureens with holes cut in the lids for the ladle handle, let out the heat and steam. The following directions may be of value to the soup maker:

Bring the cold water in the stockpot with the meat and bones to the boil slowly, and let it simmer for hours, never boiling, and never ceasing to simmer. Skim off every bit of scum and fat, for which purpose it is as well to use a stockpot with a faucet at the bottom. Beware of using too much salt; a little is advisable, as it causes the scum to rise, but as the liquid boils down, the proportion of salt is increased in consequence, because the water flies off in steam, but the salt remains. Soft water is the best for making Soup.